Manaus, Brazil
This Amazonian city is often thought of as simply a launchpad to
Brazil’s vast wilderness, but deserves deeper exploration in
itself, not least for the indigenous culture that it showcases.
Cradled by the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões – whose acid,
coffee-coloured waters and alkaline, lighter-hued currents converge
just outside town – Manaus enjoys year-round warm weather, thanks
to its proximity to the equator. It’s home to the Teatro Amazonas
opera house, a symbol of the region’s rubber prowess during
colonial rule that today makes a great place to catch a local
performance. Explore the colourful, Renaissance-inspired space on a
guided tour, then savour lunch or dinner under an
impressive glass dome at the Opera
Restaurante – the flagship diner of the namesake hotel, which,
with its rooftop pool and numerous design and sustainability
credentials, is one of the best stays in the city. Also check out
indigenous restaurant Biatuwi, where chef Clarinda Ramos serves up
grilled fish in cocoa leaves, and hearty fish bowls, alongside
other traditional dishes, the serving of which is as much a
political statement as a culinary one. Vegan? Try Edi Sabor.
To experience more of the area’s diverse flavours (the North Region
is home to over 92 ethnic groups and 36 languages, and counting),
graze your way around the many food stalls at the Mercado Adolpho
Lisboa. At Yandé Muraki, meet a collective of native
creatives – mainly Sateré-Mawé women – producing jewellery,
sculptures and more. Finally, explore the city’s riverine life – a
serene world in its own right. Cruising from one floating village
and houseboat to the next offers a window into how the river’s ebb
and flow influences locals and ecosystems alike. Ecological wonders
within easy reach of the city, meanwhile, include treetop canopy
walks and nighttime excursions to swim with pink dolphins and meet
communities intent on preserving rainforest heritage. In the
blackwater region, south of Manaus, stay at Juma Lodge,
where solar systems are in place to minimise the property’s
environmental footprint.
